Fifth Avenue Forum

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2021 1:24 pm**

Source of the post $530 for the springs, new hinge, replaced weatherseal. All good in the hood.

JFC. Next time call me and I'll do it for half that on my way to HHI.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2021 1:36 pm**

And when would that be? I'm not lifting this door manually for two years!

The springs were custom/hard to find. A Google search said the average price was $200 for one spring replacement, so we had two replaced and the other stuff done, so the total wasn't unbearable.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2021 1:42 pm**

And when would that be? I'm not lifting this door manually for two years!

The springs were custom/hard to find. A Google search said the average price was $200 for one spring replacement, so we had two replaced and the other stuff done, so the total wasn't unbearable.

Hey, I didn't say I would be timely.

I replaced the springs on both of my garage doors a few years ago. The parts are pretty inexpensive, and installation is simple (still dangerous if you clown around).

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2021 8:29 pm**

New faucet is directly above the existing air admittance valve. The faucet threads are probably 3” longer than they need to be and I can’t get the nut on the backside. F me

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2021 9:35 pm**

Basin wrench? I'm having trouble visualizing what the problem is.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 7:10 am**

Def sounds like a basin wrench job.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 9:39 am**

No, it's a space thing. The new faucet has probably 6" of threads that go through the countertop and below. Countertop is only around 1.5" thick so the threads go about 4.5" below the counter. Directly below the new faucet hole there's one of those air admittance/Studor valves. The top of the valve is about 3" from the underside of the countertop. 2 minutes, interference.

I ended up taking the valve out and now have an open vent to air. I'm going to see if we have a pipe cutter at work that's big enough for me to get around the threads on the faucet and trim it back to about 2-2.5"

This one is similar to the faucet I have https://www.homedepot.com/p/KRAUS-Bolde ... 25#overlay

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 9:55 am**

This is one area where a picture would be worth its weight in gold...

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:00 am**

it would be, but I didn't take one and I'm not at home now. Don't think it's a thing 5AF can solve for me, just letting out my frustrations.

Here's a pic I found on pinterest that shows the threads I'm talking about.

There's a funky nut that gets tightened on the backside, but directly under is one of these things

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:05 am**

Ah, my guess is this.

Can you loosen the P trap and spin the vent closer to under the sink?

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:13 am**

I blame this on white cabinets

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:14 am**

No, the valve isn't installed on the P trap. The drain goes into a disposal, into the P trap, and into the wall. Inside the wall there's a tee - one side draining down and the upside for the vent. The piping on the upside of the tee 90's back out of the wall and under the sink and 90's back up into the vent. The 90's are back to back and there's maybe 1" of straight between the second 90 and the vent. So it's not like I can trim the pipe back some.

This is a more appropriate pic

One option is to cap the existing vent pipe and install the vent on the P trap like mac's pic. But I figured I'd try trimming the faucet threads first, as I'm not sure I even have the room to install it on the P trap.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:15 am**

I blame this on white cabinets

They are real, and they are spectacular

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:28 am**

No, the valve isn't installed on the P trap. The drain goes into a disposal, into the P trap, and into the wall. Inside the wall there's a tee - one side draining down and the upside for the vent. The piping on the upside of the tee 90's back out of the wall and under the sink and 90's back up into the vent. The 90's are back to back and there's maybe 1" of straight between the second 90 and the vent. So it's not like I can trim the pipe back some.

This is a more appropriate pic

One option is to cap the existing vent pipe and install the vent on the P trap like mac's pic. But I figured I'd try trimming the faucet threads first, as I'm not sure I even have the room to install it on the P trap.

F the plumber that installed this. Lol.

My guess is taking the vent off will lead to odor. But worth a try

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:35 am**

So, got quotes to totally take one bathroom down to the studs, expand it out into a bedroom closet, build a new closet in that bedroom in the opposite corner, replace tub with walk in shower and stand alone tub, then install new shower and floor in other bathroom. $38k and can't get scheduled till March.

Gotta be done though and it replaces a 10 year old DIY job that just hasn't worked out.

Time to refi.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 11:12 am**

No, the valve isn't installed on the P trap. The drain goes into a disposal, into the P trap, and into the wall. Inside the wall there's a tee - one side draining down and the upside for the vent. The piping on the upside of the tee 90's back out of the wall and under the sink and 90's back up into the vent. The 90's are back to back and there's maybe 1" of straight between the second 90 and the vent. So it's not like I can trim the pipe back some.

This is a more appropriate pic

One option is to cap the existing vent pipe and install the vent on the P trap like mac's pic. But I figured I'd try trimming the faucet threads first, as I'm not sure I even have the room to install it on the P trap.
F the plumber that installed this. Lol.

My guess is taking the vent off will lead to odor. But worth a try

Yeah there have been quite a few "What the F were you thinking" moments with the house. But what house doesn't have those?

I was trying to find out through the google machine what the disadvantage was of keeping these vents open. I know we've replaced other ones throughout the house due to odor, but is that the only issue? It's inside a cabinet, so maybe I won't notice?? It's what I'm doing now until I can try the cutting method.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 1:04 pm**

Source of the post F the plumber that installed this. Lol.

This. That said, would you not be able to just grab some 45s or 90s at HD and shift that vent over just a bit? Seems like that would be the easiest solution.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 1:15 pm**

I'm not sure, I'm just guessing that a vent that is after a trap would begin to smell. That's the point of a trap.

The 45 idea may also work. I don't know if those vents have to be vertical. I just learned what they are today

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 1:19 pm**

I'm not sure, I'm just guessing that a vent that is after a trap would begin to smell. That's the point of a trap.

The 45 idea may also work. I don't know if those vents have to be vertical. I just learned what they are today

It should just be a one-way valve to let air in (for pressure). If you cut it parallel to the wall, I see no reason why you couldn't turn it 90° to one side, and then another 90° straight up, mounting the vent there. Just my $.02.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 1:20 pm**

Source of the post F the plumber that installed this. Lol.
This. That said, would you not be able to just grab some 45s or 90s at HD and shift that vent over just a bit? Seems like that would be the easiest solution.

That would require cutting into the existing piping. There's no extra "meat" there to cut into. It's 90,90, vent. I'd have to tear into the wall and build a new tee most likely.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 1:23 pm**

Source of the post F the plumber that installed this. Lol.
This. That said, would you not be able to just grab some 45s or 90s at HD and shift that vent over just a bit? Seems like that would be the easiest solution.
That would require cutting into the existing piping. There's no extra "meat" there to cut into. It's 90,90, vent. I'd have to tear into the wall and build a new tee most likely.

Oof. I dunno, if it meant being able to get my faucet on, I'd almost chance cutting it close enough that I could get at least 1/4 of an adapter on it. Since it's just for air, I wouldn't worry too much with that kind of tolerance. Of course, that's just me without being able to walk around and really see what's going on.

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 2:24 pm**

Maybe, just maybe it would work. Problem is, the 90 now going sideways may still be too tall. I'll measure the elbows when I get home today to see if it's feasible. It's going to be a pita sawing the old pipe off - hardly any room in there.

I got a pipe cutter at work that should be able to fit around the threads on the faucet. If I damage the faucet, I just buy a new one without the stupid 6" of threads hanging out. The old faucet also sat right on top of this valve, but I didn't have to worry about the interference. There was only 1" or so threads protruding to get a nut on. Surely there are similar faucets out there.

Posted: **Sat Jul 24, 2021 12:30 pm**

Source of the post F the plumber that installed this. Lol.
This. That said, would you not be able to just grab some 45s or 90s at HD and shift that vent over just a bit? Seems like that would be the easiest solution.

Double 90s did the trick. HD sells short run 90s that allowed me to do it. Crisis averted

Posted: **Sat Jul 24, 2021 3:00 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jul 25, 2021 1:50 pm**

Hey, that's the Miami GM from Ballers.

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