CAD & 3D Printing Thread

[NTP66]

I mean, you'd be smoking plastic.............

[faftorial]

Had an acquaintance in college that make a six foot high bong out of PVC pipe. It was ridiculous.

[faftorial]

I mean, you'd be smoking plastic.............

As long as the bowl is not plastic, this would work.

Check for existing bong plans.

[CBear3]

Were the candy corn and coffin lights your CAD work or did you find them somewhere?

[NTP66]

Were the candy corn and coffin lights your CAD work or did you find them somewhere?

Found them both on MakerWorld.com, though I did modify the lid to incorporate another cat design I found. The only stuff I’ve designed in CAD are basically organization things and replacement parts for around the house. Though, I did design a horizontal iPhone mag charger mount that I use on my nightstand after not finding one I liked online.

[faftorial]

@eddy

[iamjs]

Let me ask this: would it be easier to buy something plastic to throw inside of those spools or is it something with the cardboard spools themselves?

You can print PLA adapters, but IME they are trash. Most of the ELEGOO cardboard spools worked fine in my AMS, but others gave me hell. Nothing but AMS assist overload errors, etc. I actually build a HomeAssistant server so that I can create some automation to look for those errors and automatically resume if they are thrown, since that fixed it most of the time.

The best option for me was to simply rip off the sides of the cardboard and load it directly onto an empty Bambu plastic spool. Super easy, and worked well. Here’s a video demonstrating how to do it:

Trigger pulled, the X1C has landed. I have so many questions, specifically on how to do multicolor prints.

But before all of that, I have to figure out why my filament keeps blobbing up. Should I assume that it is running too hot or is there too much space between the nozzle and the plate? It did the first layer with no issues at all. But then after the first layer check, it scanned the print and took the nozzle away from the print. By the time the print resumed, there was a blob on the nozzle that just smeared everywhere. I figured I would go with something easy like the base of a curling stone so I could get familiar with how it printed.

[NTP66]

Trigger pulled, the X1C has landed. I have so many questions, specifically on how to do multicolor prints.

But before all of that, I have to figure out why my filament keeps blobbing up. Should I assume that it is running too hot or is there too much space between the nozzle and the plate? It did the first layer with no issues at all. But then after the first layer check, it scanned the print and took the nozzle away from the print. By the time the print resumed, there was a blob on the nozzle that just smeared everywhere. I figured I would go with something easy like the base of a curling stone so I could get familiar with how it printed.

X1C? Nice, going big. First thing's first - what slicer are you using? Bambu Studio is nice and works, but IMO, use OrcaSlicer. Orca gets more features quicker, and unless you plan on uploading your own designs to MakerWorld, there is no need for Bambu Studio.

Next, what filament are you using? If you're using ELEGOO PLA, you'll need to tune the filament, because the default Bambu settings aren't perfect for it. That could very well be your problem if you're using the Bambu profiles.Orca has built-in calibration tests (Calibration menu in the slicer) that you should use. At a minimum, you'll want to run the Temperature, Flow Rate, and Pressure Advance (line method). For what it's worth, here's a screenshot of my ELEGOO PLA profile:

And one of my OVERTURE PETG (you need to print PETG slower - even Bambu's own PETG profiles are too fast):

Multi-colored printing is easy once you learn the basics. You just need to add filaments to your slicer, then set the type and color. If you've got an AMS, you don't even need to do that - just click on the Synchronize filament from the AMS button in the slicer and it'll pull down the data. That said, it will only automatically fill that data out if you're using Bambu spools. If you're using anything else, you need to set them in either the slicer or the Handy app first, then sync and Orca will adjust accordingly. Here's a good video on how to do multi-color printing (TL;DR, select an object and paint it with a different color):



After lunch, I'll post some screenshots of settings I change that I think are beneficial, with how to change them in all profiles on the back end.

[NTP66]

So, there are a few changes that I made to my presets that I think are worth doing:

Strength Tab:
Infill\Sparse infill pattern: Adaptive Cubic [Adaptive Cubic is the GOAT infill pattern for me. Fast, strong, no risk of the nozzle clipping the top like in grid]

Support Tab:
Support\Type: Tree (auto) [Tree supports are superior in most ways, and I can't even tell you the last time I used Normal]

Support\Threshold angle: 15 [This will cut down on how many supports you need. The default is 60, so you'd have a ton more supports. You can always paint on supports if you need them, but I have never had to]
Support\Advanced\Top Z Distance: Match the profile, so if using .20mm, this should be set to .2, etc.
Support\Advanced\Bottom interface spacing: 0
Support\Tree supports\Branch Diameter Angle: 5
Support\Tree supports\Tree Support Branch Angle: 60

You can either edit the individual presets in the slicer's GUI, or you can modify the .JSON files directly. I chose the latter, because I modify every single profile. Time consuming, but it's usually a one-off. Upgrades unfortunately overwrite this stuff, so you'd have to keep notes on what you change. I simply compare the newly installed directory with my backup, and make the necessary changes. The JSON files are stored in C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\OrcaSlicer\system\BBL\process. At the very least, you can modify both fdm_process_common.json and fdm_process_bbl_common.json, which should cover most things, and just backup/restore them for upgrades.

[NTP66]

Also, because I've made this mistake, ensure that you have the correct plate selected under the printer in your slicer. I don't know which plate the X1C comes with now, but the P1S comes with the gold textured PEI plate, so you need to make sure that's the one listed under Bed type, otherwise you'll have a number of issues. I'm actually a little jealous that you went X1C, haha.

[NTP66]

So, my skeleton fell over today thanks to the absurd wind. The head fell off, and the male connector piece - one week old - broke. Arm also fell off, but didn't break. It's the PETG connector that I printed, so now I have real world experience of it working. Just printed out a new connector for the head/neck, and also ordered a guy wire kit so that I can secure this giant thing at the hip and prevent him from tipping over again.

[CBear3]

So I've always wanted an outdoor nativity set, but now I'm just hoping somebody, somewhere has done the 12ft tall skeleton version.

[eddy]

So I've always wanted an outdoor nativity set, but now I'm just hoping somebody, somewhere has done the 12ft tall skeleton version.

I'm trying to decide which is funnier, 12 ft skeletons depicting this or 12 foot JC, Mary , Joey and the rest of the gang

[iamjs]

wow, thanks for all of the info. It definitely has helped and everything looks a lot smoother now.

I changed the bed earlier only because of the Bambu studio defaulting to the mini. That ended up causing it to make a few BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR noises while running it's prechecks. Figured something was off and sure enough, it was the bed.

Doing the modern Christmas trees tonight that I found on MakerWorld using a glow in the dark PLA.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/763129 ... eId-698041
I scaled two of the three up ~200% so it's gonna take some time to finish. By default they're supposed to be 4, 3.3, and 2.5 inches. Once I scaled up, they should be closer to 8, 6.5, and 3 inches.

[NTP66]

Nice! BTW, the BRRR is normal at the start of prints,

Oh, and make sure that you run the calibration on the printer when you get a chance, if you haven’t already. Only takes 25 minutes.

[iamjs]

this seemed like it was a different BRRRRRRRR though. Like it was slamming hard against the left side and was trying to go through the wall repeatedly.

[iamjs]

and so far so good. Print was still running early this morning and no signs of filament turning into blobs or spaghetti.



Filament isn't glowing like I thought it would, but it does look like there are some green flakes in it so maybe it might turn out better than expected.

I think I might have used the wrong stuff.

[NTP66]

If you're going to use glow filament, or any other abrasive filament, do yourself a favor and grab a hardened steel hotend (complete) and the hardened steel extruder gear. Abrasive filaments will do a number on both of those parts, and the hardened parts will last much longer. Taking the extruder apart is stupid easy, too, and Bambu's wiki has links to basically every maintenance step.

As for maintenance, I basically do most of what this guy recommends, and I think even Bambu put this guy's video in their wiki:



I'd also recommend a cheap tool kit for the 1.5 and 2mm allen bolts on these machines. I bought this one for about $20, and it has worked out beautifully. The allen keys that Bambu provides will eventually strip the heads.

[AuthorTony]

How much would it cost to have this thingamajig printed?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2552514

[LITT]

What a genius little contraption. I’ve always been baffled there aren’t more easily available couplers for dust collectors in big box stores

[NTP66]

How much would it cost to have this thingamajig printed?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2552514

PM me your address and I'll send it out for free.

[NTP66]

@AuthorTony, I'll have it in the mail this afternoon. Printed it with 6 walls, so the coupler ends are basically 100% infill. Strong support in the middle, and the entire piece feels real sturdy. Some minor stringing on an overhang I did not see after slicing it, but I cut them away and it's clean now.





Ignore how the box it comes in looks, lol. I had nothing on hand that would fit it, so I had to cut one down to size.

[AuthorTony]

That's awesome! Thank you so much. This will help in keeping my house from turning into a dust bowl when I futz around with woodworking in the basement.

[eddy]

Nice work! Can you print the glaive from Krull?

[NTP66]

Nice work! Can you print the glaive from Krull?

I can print damn near anything if there's a model for it.