CAD & 3D Printing Thread

[NTP66]

Yeah, that looks fantastic. Marble will hide imperfections, too. and seam lines. I've only printed three things in marble PLA - two succulent planters, and a middle finger statue for a friend, lol. With your issues, I would seriously consider installing OrcaSlicer and using the defaults for Bambu PLA, or my settings for ELEGOO, and reprinting that red handle to see how it compares.

I have a .2mm nozzle, but only use it for really fine detailed prints, nothing large. Print times go up quite a bit with it since you can print so small. I printed all of the trim pieces for my dad's Corvette model with the .2mm nozzle. Definitely not something I'd use daily, especially when you can print at .08mm with the .4mm nozzle.

What are these printed at? I assume the default .20mm? I would try that handle print at .12mm, and probably also use variable layer height to smooth it even further.

[iamjs]

Yeah, they are default .20 mm. I thought I had variable layer height on since you had recommended it for something in an earlier post, but let me doublecheck.

I've been using OrcaSlicer as my standard software and have your settings set as my default. Since 90% of my filament is all from the same company, I figured it would be easier that way. Plus if I go to you for a question, it's easier to say this is what I'm using and these are my settings.

I think the only stuff that isn't ELEGOO is the marble, a carbon fiber spool that I haven't tried yet, and a bright neon green that I bought for some reason. I thought maybe it was for doing Christmas decorations, but I have a dark green spool for that. Oh, and that supposed glow in the dark stuff that I used on the first curling stone, but that spool is so low that there's maybe enough for one last print job.

[NTP66]

In that case, you might want to run through the calibration items with one of those ELEGOO filaments to see if anything of yours needs to be adjusted (temp, etc.). I want to say that even using the Bambu defaults worked fine. The ELEGOO settings I posted really aren't that different.

[NTP66]

I forgot to ask, how are you handling the filament poop? After a lot of prints, I can say that the design I have currently installed has worked the best. Basically exits the chute, goes straight down and into a bin underneath the printer's stand. The ones that exit to the side always got clogged because filament would get stick in the ramp. I found a modular design on makerwork, and then used Meshmixer to resize it to scale up the opening a bit, then cut the bracket ends of the model, scaled them up... lots of manual work on my end, but it works beautifully. Typing that out makes me realize that I should have just designed it in onshape myself to save time.

Here's the original model I used: https://makerworld.com/en/models/153832 ... eId-168111

Installed (before I resized it):

Here are some comparison shots between the standard model and mine:

I have all of my files in case you wanted to do something similar. The model linked is too narrow, IMO.

[iamjs]

I thought the poop went into that small container in back and stayed there. I was sorely mistaken. When I went around back to check cables for those error messages, I found tons of dead filament back there. For now, I have it going into a tiny bin that I have yet to empty.

And I'm not sure if you'd be familiar enough with this but I'll ask anyway. How do you merge two .stl files where one layer sticks out slightly from the other? What I'm trying to do is use the Stanley Cup model that I have and embed the HHOF logo on the bottom like it is on the actual presentation Cup. Basically trying to make the Cup look more authentic.



So when I try to merge the two, the .stl that contains the logo gets absorbed within the base of the Cup and you can't see it. I'm sure it's probably something easy, but I don't know how to do it in OrcaSlicer or do I need to go into a CAD program?

[NTP66]

It's easier than you think.

1. Import the Stanley Cup .stl into the slicer
2. Right-click on the object, select Add Part, then select Load
3. Select the second logo .stl file
4. In the slicer, click on Objects view so that you can see each individual file
5. Select the logo .stl file object, and now you can scale, move, etc. to get it into place

When I do this, the first thing I usually do after adding the part is to go to the Move tool and enter 0,0,0. This should place the added part into the center the base part. When you slice the file, it will slice as a single model.

[NTP66]

My daughter is having a few friends over soon for her birthday, and she wanted to do some sort of baking competition, with both cupcakes and cookies. My wife and I will blindly judge all of them, and the winner of each category wins these, which I just finished printing:





I had to splice the cupcake and a trophy stand together, then design a plaque for it. Also had to add a plaque to the gingerbread man. I think they’re pretty cute, especially as prizes.

[iamjs]

Going with an 8-bit Christmas theme in the office this year.

[iamjs]

It's easier than you think.

1. Import the Stanley Cup .stl into the slicer
2. Right-click on the object, select Add Part, then select Load
3. Select the second logo .stl file
4. In the slicer, click on Objects view so that you can see each individual file
5. Select the logo .stl file object, and now you can scale, move, etc. to get it into place

When I do this, the first thing I usually do after adding the part is to go to the Move tool and enter 0,0,0. This should place the added part into the center the base part. When you slice the file, it will slice as a single model.

I got the hang of most of that, except that the logo sticks out further than the base. I'm shelfing the idea for now, at least until after the holidays. I've been running non-stop for the most part with printing 8-bit Christmas decorations for my office door. I have light behind them but I'm looking for something that spreads the light a little better.

[NTP66]

It's easier than you think.

1. Import the Stanley Cup .stl into the slicer
2. Right-click on the object, select Add Part, then select Load
3. Select the second logo .stl file
4. In the slicer, click on Objects view so that you can see each individual file
5. Select the logo .stl file object, and now you can scale, move, etc. to get it into place

When I do this, the first thing I usually do after adding the part is to go to the Move tool and enter 0,0,0. This should place the added part into the center the base part. When you slice the file, it will slice as a single model.

I got the hang of most of that, except that the logo sticks out further than the base. I'm shelfing the idea for now, at least until after the holidays. I've been running non-stop for the most part with printing 8-bit Christmas decorations for my office door. I have light behind them but I'm looking for something that spreads the light a little better.

If you want, send me your .3mf file and I'll take a look. Are you just trying to make it flush or something?

[iamjs]

Yeah, just flush enough for it to show in the base since there isn't a lip around the bottom of the Cup.

I guess it would be like merging it except I don't want the remainder of the logo sticking out since the Cup wouldn't be sitting flat against the ground.

[NTP66]

That should be easy enough. Drop the .3mf into Google Drive or something and I'll edit it and send it back so that you can see.

[NTP66]

@iamjs, figure it's easier to reply here. First off, here's the .3mf file. When you open it with Orca, transfer the settings, don't discard them. I used the 0.16mm High Quality profile because I figure you'd want this to be a little finer detail, but you can change that around. There are four plates in total, depending on how you wanted to handle this:



Plate 1: 2-part Base (Face Up)
This is if you wanted to print the Cup and Base separately. Layer height is set to 0.08mm in Object view, which is the lowest a 0.4mm nozzle can go, to get you the finest detail possible. Honestly, if you have a 0.2mm nozzle, I would 100% go this route and change the layer height to 0.06mm. The detail you can get on that nozzle is incredible, especially for very thin text like the HHOF logo. Ironing is enabled on all top surfaces.

Plate 2: 2-part Base (Face Down)
Same as plate 1, except the bottom of the Cup with the HHOF logo will print face down. If you're using a textured PEI plate, just know that this is the look you'll get when you print it.

Plate 3: 2-part Cup
This is the Cup portion of the 2-part stuff. Super glue gel will make short work of combining the two.

Plate 4: Assembled Cup
This is if you want to print the assembled Cup in one shot. Longest print, but if you're good with the textured look on the bottom with the HHOF logo, and you don't have to mess with glue, this may be the way to go. Variable layer height enabled on the base only so that it prints at 0.08mm for that fine detail.

Globally, Arachne is used for the wall generation, which helps with the tiny text, IMO. Wall loops are set to 3, and Detect thin walls is enabled. I don't have Supports enabled in any of them, and despite the slicer's warnings, I'd be inclined to give it a go without them for the first run. If you don't want to waste filament, maybe clone the assembled Cup, scale it way down and then print. See how the upper bowl looks before deciding whether or not you truly need Supports.

If you do need them, here are my Supports settings (Hybrid is required because of the variable layer height):

[iamjs]

wow, this is way more detail than I expected.

Thanks.

[NTP66]

One of the new outdoor decorations I bought was this 'waterall' LED with a star at the top. You're supposed to hang it from the star, but I wanted to place it in the middle of the yard. So, went to HD and got some 10' 3/4 PVC, a 12" galvanized nail for support, and then designed and printed this star holder in PETG that fits snugly on the top of the PVC. Turned out nicely, and now everything is setup. If I spent more than 5 minutes designing it, I'd probably have figured out a way to add a little more support vertically, as the star tilts backwards just ever so slightly.

[iamjs]

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e ... k/MRJ5UJWM

I'm obviously still learning but had no idea that a 31x31x40 printer existed and it isn't at a crazy price point either.

[NTP66]

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e ... k/MRJ5UJWM

I'm obviously still learning but had no idea that a 31x31x40 printer existed and it isn't at a crazy price point either.

That's smaller than the 3D printer at the shop where I had my car's IGLA system installed at, lol. He designs his own custom audio/video parts for cars.

[faftorial]

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e ... k/MRJ5UJWM

I'm obviously still learning but had no idea that a 31x31x40 printer existed and it isn't at a crazy price point either.

That's smaller than the 3D printer at the shop where I had my car's IGLA system installed at, lol. He designs his own custom audio/video parts for cars.

Does he have a collection of calipers or does he use published specs on parts.

[NTP66]

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e ... k/MRJ5UJWM

I'm obviously still learning but had no idea that a 31x31x40 printer existed and it isn't at a crazy price point either.

That's smaller than the 3D printer at the shop where I had my car's IGLA system installed at, lol. He designs his own custom audio/video parts for cars.

Does he have a collection of calipers or does he use published specs on parts.

These are all custom parts, so there aren't published specs on anything. There's a 1000% chance he has calipers. Anyone designing anything for 3D printing needs one.

[NTP66]

I can't find anything I want to 3D print right now. I have so much new filament in many colors, but nothing to use it on at the moment. Kinda funny, because there are times where my printer is working 12 hours/day for a full week, and then you get this lull. I even walked around the house yesterday to see if anything jumped out at me that I could change/improve, lol.

[eddy]

Staff of Ra headpiece from Indy?

[NTP66]

Spent the last hour fixing issues stemming from broken filament in the tubing, requiring me to disassemble one of the AMS units (still an easy task) to fix. So I guess this is what I get for complaining about being bored, lol.

[iamjs]

so I'm in a bit of a situation. The camera and USB cables that were sent did not resolve my situation, and now I'm getting an error related to not being able to find the homing Z axis. Wonderful. Tried resetting the printer several times and that homing Z error is still a thing.

Is there any chance that Bambu would send me a new printer? I feel like throwing parts at an issue that hasn't been fixed is a bit of a losing cause. I sent an email last night giving them an update and told them that I wasn't happy that my printer hasn't worked properly since the first two weeks of ownership. I wasn't nasty or mean in my response, but you can definitely sense the disappointment and frustration in how I wrote it.

But before the printer completely went down, I was able to get off some more snowflakes with just enough time to finish off my door decorating.

[NTP66]

That's rough, and I feel bad since I'm the one who recommended them. I'm not sure if they'd send a new printer entirely; it's more likely they'll continue to send you parts to replace, like a board. Which kinda sucks because you have to spend the time taking it apart to replace the parts. Then again, might not hurt to ask stating that you didn't buy it to devote hours upon hours of troubleshooting and fixing a product that didn't work from the start. Have you searched https://forum.bambulab.com to see if anyone else has come across this? Also, assuming this is the error, have you read their wiki article on it? https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/trouble ... terference

[iamjs]

Don't feel too bad. I'm getting a new printer! They reassured me that I wouldn't be getting a factory refurb, so that's kinda cool.

So with the holidays coming up and my travel schedule being all over the place, I'm wondering if I can have them ship it after the new year. I really don't want it sitting outside in the rain/snow and more importantly, don't want any porch pirates getting any ideas. I could drop them a line in the ticket saying do not send out until after 1/5/25, but I don't know how big of a team I'm dealing with and/or how many different hands this will be going through.

And now for the bad news, which I can only blame myself for: I had to buy packing material from them since I got rid of my box almost immediately after my printer came. They want pics of it being packaged in a certain manner, which I completely understand. But if they're going to be re-issuing me a new printer, I have no problems with this.