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Postby nocera » Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:21 pm

From my research, burn in on the C1 is only a concern if you keep it on for days straight with a static logo bug or score ticker. There are also settings built in to prevent it. It seems like it’s very unlikely.

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Postby NTP66 » Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:23 pm

It’s definitely a secondary factor, if not tertiary, to me. The brightness issue is what rules out OLED entirely, as it did when I bought my X900F.

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Postby nocera » Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:26 pm

Now you have me wondering if I should get Geek Squad protection.

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Postby AuthorTony » Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:29 pm

I don't really watch anything with a static logo. Do the black bars from various aspect ratios ever cause an issue?

My TV room isn't bright by any stretch, but there are two windows. Neither really get much sunlight during the hours I usually watch TV, but the brightness or lack thereof of OLED scares me a bit.

I know it's a completely frivolous purchase and I should just stick with my TV for at least a few more years.

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Postby Willie Kool » Mon Nov 29, 2021 6:34 pm

Can you control the light in your room? If it’s bright, OLED is going to be at a disadvantage.
That, and HDR performance.
The brightness issue is what rules out OLED entirely
:thumb:

The X950G is around 1,200 nits while the C1 is around 850 max.

That Z9J I mentioned can reach well over 3,000 nits. :shock:

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Postby nocera » Thu Dec 02, 2021 11:38 pm



I’m picking up the 65 C1 tomorrow. I’ll let you know.

By the way, while researching this tv along with all the collaboration and other settings, it’s easy to see how older folks can get overwhelmed by technology. I haven’t bought a TV in 10 years and I feel **** lost. There are so many customization options.
I'd appreciate that! Thanks!

If I end up buying the C1, I might spring for professional calibration. It's just a pain getting a pro to come out here to the sticks.
First of all, the C1 is insane. I’ve had it set up for a day and I’m loving it. 1080p TV is a bit disappointing but 4K media looks amazing. I’m very happy with it and it’s a gigantic upgrade from my 2010 Sony set. I’m still tinkering with settings to see if I can improve the SDR stuff.

For you? It’s probably more FOMO. Your current set is solid like others have said and it’s a pretty big investment for what wouldn’t amount to that big of an upgrade. 120hz gaming is nuts though.

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Postby eddy » Fri Dec 03, 2021 8:00 am

That LG is an amazing tv for dark rooms, I too have the Sony 900 led series and love it, but that LG is awesome. I still have a good 5byears before I upgrade, bit if it were me today, I'd probably be getting that LG or the Samsung q90 depending on the room setting.

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Postby nocera » Fri Dec 03, 2021 12:59 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?

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Postby eddy » Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:16 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?
I think they absolutely look great in a bright room, but they just can't get as bright as something with backlighting, so you lose out on some perceived quality with a brighter room.

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Postby nocera » Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:18 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?
I think they absolutely look great in a bright room, but they just can't get as bright as something with backlighting, so you lose out on some perceived quality with a brighter room.
Ah got you. I’d probably have to see them side by side to get a real idea of it.

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Postby eddy » Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:21 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?
I think they absolutely look great in a bright room, but they just can't get as bright as something with backlighting, so you lose out on some perceived quality with a brighter room.
Ah got you. I’d probably have to see them side by side to get a real idea of it.
Could also have something to do with how OLED handles the glare reflecting on it? No idea if this is true, but I have seen some people mention direct sunlight hitting the tv for so long also could have an effect on it. I would absolutely love to get an OLED next.

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Postby NTP66 » Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:28 pm

It's both. My living room has two large windows on the side that get crazy sunlight in the afternoon, and two windows behind the set. I need as much brightness as possible during the day.

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Postby nocera » Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:56 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?
I think they absolutely look great in a bright room, but they just can't get as bright as something with backlighting, so you lose out on some perceived quality with a brighter room.
Ah got you. I’d probably have to see them side by side to get a real idea of it.
Could also have something to do with how OLED handles the glare reflecting on it? No idea if this is true, but I have seen some people mention direct sunlight hitting the tv for so long also could have an effect on it. I would absolutely love to get an OLED next.
Interesting. To be honest I've been a little overwhelmed by all of the settings and which ones to use in which situations. I've watched way too many 15 minute long YouTube videos describing in nauseating detail the "best" settings. My wife finally had to yell at me last night to just set the damn controller down and enjoy the show. BBC's Ghosts is great, by the way.

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Postby AuthorTony » Fri Dec 03, 2021 2:04 pm



For you? It’s probably more FOMO. Your current set is solid like others have said and it’s a pretty big investment for what wouldn’t amount to that big of an upgrade. 120hz gaming is nuts though.
Thank you for the info! I really appreciate it. I'm definitely going to hold off until I either need a new TV or fall into a bucket of stupid money. I'd put odds on the former happening first. :lol:

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Postby eddy » Fri Dec 03, 2021 2:11 pm

I keep hearing about OLEDs not being great in light rooms. I have mine in my living room which has two windows. I had both blinds open yesterday and it still looked great and was definitely bright enough. Maybe that was more of a problem with older panels?
I think they absolutely look great in a bright room, but they just can't get as bright as something with backlighting, so you lose out on some perceived quality with a brighter room.
Ah got you. I’d probably have to see them side by side to get a real idea of it.
Could also have something to do with how OLED handles the glare reflecting on it? No idea if this is true, but I have seen some people mention direct sunlight hitting the tv for so long also could have an effect on it. I would absolutely love to get an OLED next.
Interesting. To be honest I've been a little overwhelmed by all of the settings and which ones to use in which situations. I've watched way too many 15 minute long YouTube videos describing in nauseating detail the "best" settings. My wife finally had to yell at me last night to just set the damn controller down and enjoy the show. BBC's Ghosts is great, by the way.
Haha, my family won't even come downstairs until I tell them I have the video and audio ready to go. It's in HDR, backlighting has to be on high! Oh you like listening to this in extended stereo when you could have atmos? They have no clue and I love annoying them with it

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Postby NTP66 » Fri Dec 03, 2021 4:30 pm

Ghosts is awesome, for sure.

I wish all manufacturers allowed you to create presets for video settings, not just have them apply to app inputs. I’d love to be able to quickly switch to a video game setting on my input that is normally in movie mode.

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Postby dodint » Mon Dec 06, 2021 10:04 pm

NTP66, or anyone.

Is there a small home theater receiver out there that can do HDMI switching and run to 3 Ohm satellite speakers, in 5.0 or 5.1?

My Mom has a Sony system that won't respond to the remote. She wants to replace/upgrade the unit but keep the existing speakers. Ideally it would run her 3 HDMI video sources so she can just run one output to her TV. Beyond that it needs no other features as she is an unsophisticated user.

Any ideas? I was going to look at Home Theater in a Box setups and just pitch the speakers.

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Postby NTP66 » Tue Dec 07, 2021 6:39 am

The 3 ohm speakers are going to be the problem, honestly. I don't even know the last time I saw a receiver that wasn't 2/4/6/8. I'd check eBay first to see if you can find the same model to make it easy, otherwise I'm struggling to see how you don't have to replace it all. If you do go the nuclear route, I cannot recommend Yamaha enough. I have a RX-V683BL and love it. Anything in the RX-V line will suit her needs, right down to HDMI switching.

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Postby dodint » Tue Dec 07, 2021 9:03 am

Anything in the RX-V line will suit her needs, right down to HDMI switching.
Thanks. In the little bit of searching I did this is where I landed, on some older RX-V equipment. But they only go down to 6 Ohm. This is going to be more annoying than I'd hoped. It might be the first time ever that NewEgg let me down. :lol:

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Postby nocera » Tue Dec 07, 2021 9:39 am

I was looking to replace our 10 year old Sony DVD home theater in a box. I was given a $300 budget so that limited the options a ton obviously. I ended up going with this Samsung soundbar 5.1 system.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-hw ... Id=6454639

It was part of the black friday sale so it was about $280 at that time. At that price, highly recommend. The biggest annoyance with our HTIAB was the way our living room is set up made wiring the rear speakers a pain in the ass. On this unit, the "wireless" satellite speakers aren't technically wireless, they need to be plugged into a receiver module. But, that module can be plugged in anywhere so throw it in the back of the room and no more wires coming from the TV. It also has a wireless sub. The only thing that needs plugged into the TV is the bar itself, which I have plugged in with HDMI ARC. It packs a surprising punch. The only downside is the sub doesn't really rattle the house like the old HTIAB did but for the price I'm very happy with it. Out of the box the settings are a bit wonky, so adjust the treble/bass to your liking. Also I had to increase the volume of the rears.

I was given the go ahead to go absolutely insane on the basement setup. She might regret that...

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Postby iamjs » Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:38 am

I was looking to replace our 10 year old Sony DVD home theater in a box. I was given a $300 budget so that limited the options a ton obviously. I ended up going with this Samsung soundbar 5.1 system.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-hw ... Id=6454639

It was part of the black friday sale so it was about $280 at that time. At that price, highly recommend. The biggest annoyance with our HTIAB was the way our living room is set up made wiring the rear speakers a pain in the ass. On this unit, the "wireless" satellite speakers aren't technically wireless, they need to be plugged into a receiver module. But, that module can be plugged in anywhere so throw it in the back of the room and no more wires coming from the TV. It also has a wireless sub. The only thing that needs plugged into the TV is the bar itself, which I have plugged in with HDMI ARC. It packs a surprising punch. The only downside is the sub doesn't really rattle the house like the old HTIAB did but for the price I'm very happy with it. Out of the box the settings are a bit wonky, so adjust the treble/bass to your liking. Also I had to increase the volume of the rears.

I was given the go ahead to go absolutely insane on the basement setup. She might regret that...
I bought those about a week or so before Black Friday. I agree that the audio settings out of the box are a little wonky and that the rear speakers are way too soft, but do you get any type of delay because of the HDMI ARC? I have to go to HDMI3 on my TV, let it detect that specific port, then go back to HDMI3 ARC in order for it to pick up my Fire TV. I tried the other HDMI ports and it's the same thing.

And the TV is fairly new and even had the software updated shortly after I bought the soundbar, although I've seen software update mess things up too.

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Postby nocera » Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:40 am

Zero delay. I had much more of a delay with the old HTIAB because of how I needed to connect everything. I haven't noticed any latency at all with this one. My TV does have a dedicated ARC, though, so that's probably helpful. I would suggest connecting to the TV via optical cable instead.

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Postby Lemon Berry Lobster » Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:05 am


My Mom has a Sony system that won't respond to the remote.
Any idea if the remote died and you can check around for a replacement remote? I have all Sony and all the remotes work with all the devices. Might not be able to find the exact remote, but there's a chance a similar one would work.

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Postby dodint » Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:23 am

Yeah, it doesn't work with the TV remote or the universal.

The system doesn't do what she wants anyway. It's a HTIB setup that does BD/DVD, but there is no way to run her DirecTV or Roku into it so she spends most of her time using the TV speakers anyway. I'm just going to replace it with a proper HT receiver with HDMI switching. She wanted to keep the speakers but I'm just going to replace those as well.

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Postby iamjs » Tue Dec 07, 2021 1:24 pm

Zero delay. I had much more of a delay with the old HTIAB because of how I needed to connect everything. I haven't noticed any latency at all with this one. My TV does have a dedicated ARC, though, so that's probably helpful. I would suggest connecting to the TV via optical cable instead.
Yeah, that's the direction that I'm heading. I just keep forgetting to do it.

I went to Best Buy shortly after and decided not to pay $40 for an optical cable. I know they usually have cheaper ones, but in this case they only had the 5' one for $35+tax and another that was closer to $100.

If Walmart doesn't have one, I'll just snag one off Amazon. It's just an inconvenience at this point, but one that is becoming annoying.

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