Fifth Avenue Forum

The kreg tool is awesome. Super easy to use and the end product looks great.

Which one do you have? The R4 (I think it's an R) one looks nice, but it's $80+, usually $100 regular priced... There's one that's like $30 that looks similar.

The k4 and k5 are being discontinued by Kreg. There have been some very good sales so I would just keep an eye out. Menards had the k5 master set for 79 4 or 5 mo ago which is very friendly

Is he K series worth it? Or just get the cheapo with a secondary clamp?

I find the K series to be infinitely better, especially if you are creating something with multiple pocket holes. Much easier to move the wood then keep moving your clamp. It can be clunky with some larger pieces/panels but I made a little indeed/our feed system that has been huge

The dust collection is really nice too

Today I found out this existed, and now will be purchasing one:

Nah, mate. I'd still strip the **** out of that screw.

I have resorted to using my 12" bit for stuff like this, haha. I like this solution much more.

I got these finish screws for a project and they use a #1 size phillips bit. You want to talk about a PITA bit size/shape!!

I find the K series to be infinitely better, especially if you are creating something with multiple pocket holes. Much easier to move the wood then keep moving your clamp. It can be clunky with some larger pieces/panels but I made a little indeed/our feed system that has been huge

TY. Have a few HD gift cards so may grab it this weekend.

Flatheads should die in a fire alongside anyone who likes them, Phillips are generally okay if you have quality screws, but give me deck screws with their associated custom bits any day of the week. I’ve never had to worry about stripping a torx head.

I find the K series to be infinitely better, especially if you are creating something with multiple pocket holes. Much easier to move the wood then keep moving your clamp. It can be clunky with some larger pieces/panels but I made a little indeed/our feed system that has been huge

TY. Have a few HD gift cards so may grab it this weekend.

i would recommend the k5 over the k4. the front facing handle is much nicer

Anyone know of a good website or place to go to, to actually buy decent deck furniture?

I bought mine from Sam's club. 2 seasons on it, my family aren't smaller people and it's held up great.

I find the K series to be infinitely better, especially if you are creating something with multiple pocket holes. Much easier to move the wood then keep moving your clamp. It can be clunky with some larger pieces/panels but I made a little indeed/our feed system that has been huge

TY. Have a few HD gift cards so may grab it this weekend.

i would recommend the k5 over the k4. the front facing handle is much nicer

Do you have to mount the jig to a workbench?

Just had my gutters cleaned, and not only did they send me photos of the before and after, and clean up after themselves, but they repaired two busted screws on separate hangers for free, and included a video of them making the repair. Now they've got a customer for life.

I find the K series to be infinitely better, especially if you are creating something with multiple pocket holes. Much easier to move the wood then keep moving your clamp. It can be clunky with some larger pieces/panels but I made a little indeed/our feed system that has been huge

TY. Have a few HD gift cards so may grab it this weekend.

i would recommend the k5 over the k4. the front facing handle is much nicer

Do you have to mount the jig to a workbench?

not necessary. it helps but you dont have to. i made a work base for it that extends the mounting surgace and also has screw storage built in to it

Worst recommendation ever, NTP66.

None of you live near me, otherwise I would have mentioned them.

Sunshine carpet cleaners, now specializing in gutters

Wall Framing question.

Pic of the wall:

It is about 25 feet long. At the top of the wall there is a 6 inch gap between duct work and the wall itself. It opens up slightly to 8 inch gap about halfway down. There are wires stapled to the bottom of the joist which power my sand mound dosing tank.

Also on this wall is a 4 inch drain pipe, that at the bottom sticks out 15 inches from the wall and has a clean out (for which I'd like to build in access).

I am not sure how I can attach my top plate/track to the joists and have room to accommodate the pipe.

I plan to use metal studs but can use wood if/when needed.

I was not going to finish the ceiling, so I am trying to avoid a soffit/bulkhead look around the ductwork so that it matches seamlessly with the rest of the basement.

My thought was to build a couple small "drop down" frames from wood 2x4s and tack them up at intervals to get below the duct work. At that point then put the metal stud top track on the bottom of the wood. Lastly, build a small "box" on the floor around the clean out. Is the drop down overkill? Should I just scab equal length 2x4s to get below the duct work and then put my top track on the ends of them? I don't think I can get in there to screw in the metal studs to the top track.

BTW - any recommendations for a 360 laser level?

You know the little valve lever thing on your bathtub that switches the flow from the faucet to the shower head? Yeah, that came off in my hand earlier. It looks like it had just been sheared right off. We both last used the shower on Sunday, no issues. Like, it didn't feel wobbly, there wasn't any disruption in the flow of water indicative of a partially open valve or anything like that.

I had to replace the nylon ball thing that opens/closes by bathroom sink drain yesterday. What a weird thing to break.

Sounds like you just got super strong over a 48 hour period.

Huh, I hadn't thought of it like that.