Home Improvement Thread
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 4:23 pm
Have you tried swearing at it?
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Well, they are quoting about $14,000 worth of repairs. Yikes. Really didn't see that coming.USAA is coming by to see if we need a new roof after a hail storm last month. We are literally (no exaggeration) the only house that doesn't have a roofing contractor sign in front of it in our neighborhood. We don't have any obvious leaks, but a few of the shingles look warped. I'd rather get it over with before hurricane season.
Let them figure it out and tell you what's wrong - that's always the right move, IMO. If they're missing stuff, move on to the next contractor.Source of the post Do you show the roofing contractor the insurance estimate with the diagram and description of damages, or let them figure it out?
Had a completely different experience. Adjuster found no hail damage, opposed to the contractor who said he found damage. Starting to think the contractor was lying to me in hopes to get extra work. I asked him to send me the photos he promised to send 3 weeks ago. I don't expect to see these photos in my inbox at all.The contractor came over yesterday, to finalize the contract. We've got a month wait for our new roof.
They matched the quote given by the insurance company, once they found out it was the entire roof being replaced.
Because they of the volume they are doing, all of their customers are automatically being upgraded to a lifetime/60 year shingle for no additional charge.
They paid our $1000 deductible in return for keeping their sign in our yard and the names/numbers of five friends/families to cold call when their business quiets down. The contractor said just get five names out of the phonebook, he didn't care if we knew them or not.
So we're essentially getting a new roof for free. There are actually a lot of different color choices, too.
I did close a few, but you want to be cautious with doing that. It strains the system more than you'd think. My BIL is an HVAC guy and is going to come over at some point and take some readings everywhere to see what's really going on.Can you close a vent or two on the first floor?
I've heard from an HVAC friend that closing vents to circulate more to other rooms is not a solution.I did close a few, but you want to be cautious with doing that. It strains the system more than you'd think. My BIL is an HVAC guy and is going to come over at some point and take some readings everywhere to see what's really going on.Can you close a vent or two on the first floor?
No open ceiling - fully insulated (above code) attic that spans the entire second floor, too. I don't think air leakage can account for this degree of difference, so it could be something like an undersized unit. I should know more later this week.I've heard from an HVAC friend that closing vents to circulate more to other rooms is not a solution.I did close a few, but you want to be cautious with doing that. It strains the system more than you'd think. My BIL is an HVAC guy and is going to come over at some point and take some readings everywhere to see what's really going on.Can you close a vent or two on the first floor?
Do you have an open ceiling plan in the master bedroom? Ours is open with no attic above us. I think that's the reason the room is always cooler in the winter and hotter in the summer than all other rooms in the house. Even if they put insulation between the supports on the trusses, you don't have that extra space of air acting as another thermal barrier.
Undersized unit would only make sense if all the other rooms were struggling.No open ceiling - fully insulated (above code) attic that spans the entire second floor, too. I don't think air leakage can account for this degree of difference, so it could be something like an undersized unit. I should know more later this week.I've heard from an HVAC friend that closing vents to circulate more to other rooms is not a solution.I did close a few, but you want to be cautious with doing that. It strains the system more than you'd think. My BIL is an HVAC guy and is going to come over at some point and take some readings everywhere to see what's really going on.Can you close a vent or two on the first floor?
Do you have an open ceiling plan in the master bedroom? Ours is open with no attic above us. I think that's the reason the room is always cooler in the winter and hotter in the summer than all other rooms in the house. Even if they put insulation between the supports on the trusses, you don't have that extra space of air acting as another thermal barrier.
Will do. We have 7 total returns, so barring them being too small, it's probably something else.Source of the post Let me know what your BIL says. Could be something useful for my situation as well.
I have the same issue man. We have one central air unit outside--we actually have to keep a window unit in our room to sleep at night. Thank God our 9 month old is not a picky sleeper--I had the thermostat at 72 last night and it was 81 in his room, which makes me really nervous.Yesterday was **** brutal. Tried to go to sleep, but it was impossible for a while thanks to the temps:
I had never seen a 12° difference between upstairs and downstairs before. It never dropped below 73.2° (setting was 70°). As a result, I'm keeping the HVAC fan on full-time during my profiles before our "Sleep" profile, so that it's always circulating air. If that doesn't help, I'm just going to put in a second unit for the upstairs. I'm tired of this **** - especially on a relatively young house that has more than sufficient insulation.
Bigger houses, and in many cases even average sized houses, should probably have two separate systems. At the very least, you should probably have the hvac zones. Is that a possibility with your system? Basically, you have separate trunks lines that feed 2 (or 3) locations in your house. And basically you have a damper that will open or close depending on where the air is neededI have the same issue man. We have one central air unit outside--we actually have to keep a window unit in our room to sleep at night. Thank God our 9 month old is not a picky sleeper--I had the thermostat at 72 last night and it was 81 in his room, which makes me really nervous.Yesterday was **** brutal. Tried to go to sleep, but it was impossible for a while thanks to the temps:
I had never seen a 12° difference between upstairs and downstairs before. It never dropped below 73.2° (setting was 70°). As a result, I'm keeping the HVAC fan on full-time during my profiles before our "Sleep" profile, so that it's always circulating air. If that doesn't help, I'm just going to put in a second unit for the upstairs. I'm tired of this **** - especially on a relatively young house that has more than sufficient insulation.
Like you said, closing vents is *not* the answer, even if it instinctively makes sense. We have five vents in our basement, so it's annoying that all of the air conditioning is going down there too although it plays a big role in keeping our basement nice and dry in the summer. I think the only answer is going to be to buy a second central air unit just for the upstairs. We do have the return vents in most rooms but they don't seem to help much.
Hvac guys would clearly know more, but basically when I did it, you separate the trunk runs. So one trunk for basement and first floor, then another for the upstairs. Then you add a thermostat for the upper floors. And in the main system, a damper is installed that opens and closes based on the thermostats.Dampers may be an option for me, as I have good access to the trunk runs in the basement.
I'm really only going to consider this if he tells me the unit is properly sized. If it's undersized, that's it, I'm replacing the system.Hvac guys would clearly know more, but basically when I did it, you separate the trunk runs. So one trunk for basement and first floor, then another for the upstairs. Then you add a thermostat for the upper floors. And in the main system, a damper is installed that opens and closes based on the thermostats.Dampers may be an option for me, as I have good access to the trunk runs in the basement.
It works pretty well. Not at well as two separate systems but would definitely help distribute the cold air a little better than what you have going on now
Yea for sure. Zoning won’t help if the system is too smallI'm really only going to consider this if he tells me the unit is properly sized. If it's undersized, that's it, I'm replacing the system.Hvac guys would clearly know more, but basically when I did it, you separate the trunk runs. So one trunk for basement and first floor, then another for the upstairs. Then you add a thermostat for the upper floors. And in the main system, a damper is installed that opens and closes based on the thermostats.Dampers may be an option for me, as I have good access to the trunk runs in the basement.
It works pretty well. Not at well as two separate systems but would definitely help distribute the cold air a little better than what you have going on now