Add up the total amperage of all the breakers and subtract it from the main one would be the easiest way. I assume you mean breakers and not fuse box.How do I tell if I have 30a available? The garage has a separate fuse box.
Gas would be cheaper to run?
These are vent free and while they will work they put a lot of condensation into the air. So if you have an expensive golf simulator you may not want to use them.
I'll take a look at the breaker laterI mean it depends how hot ya wanna get it in there I guess. A decent space heater may be adequate.Damn thought I could just buy a space heater and go on with my life
Yup, I've had the same issue. I had a tech come out and try and tell me that it was my Nest thermostat.I’ve had that issue in the past. If you open the panel, turn on the heat and look through the end of the burner tubes. It could be that the far tubes where the sensor is aren’t getting flame, possibly due to rust or debris in the tubes. That’s more likely than a bad sensor, IMO, given that it’s intermittent.
Could always pull the sensor and rub it with a dollar bill to see if that helps.
I did the dollar bill thing yesterday on the sensor...and it worked for a while (until it didn't overnight). I know it's not my t-stat the thing is like a year and a half old (we replaced the old once when we moved in). We shall see what the tech says. He's a local guy I trust to not try to rip me off.Yup, I've had the same issue. I had a tech come out and try and tell me that it was my Nest thermostat.I’ve had that issue in the past. If you open the panel, turn on the heat and look through the end of the burner tubes. It could be that the far tubes where the sensor is aren’t getting flame, possibly due to rust or debris in the tubes. That’s more likely than a bad sensor, IMO, given that it’s intermittent.
Could always pull the sensor and rub it with a dollar bill to see if that helps.
I thought I counted 8 this morning, but I could be wrong. Of course we couldn't get it to reproduce it while he was here. The paper I have downstairs says 7 flashes is Low Flame sense signal, 8 flashes is C terminal not grounded to frame of furnace or bad Thermostat. We had the thermostat last year using the C-wire...so it would be weird that it wasn't grounded, and he said he checked that. The board that is in the furnace is not the original board, it was replaced at some point.How many flashes? 8 is the flame sensor not detecting a flame after multiple cycles.
It's a Goodman. Like I said it was put in around 2007 or 2008 from looking at the tag inside and the numbers listed. I just want to get another year or so out of it.Weird, I thought the flashes were universal. What brand furnace? Mine's a York.
Sounds more like your system is unbalanced than anything else. Easiest way to check it to turn on the furnace or AC, and go to each vent, holding a tissue over the end of it. See how far the air blows the tissue. My guess is that in their rooms are getting much more airflow than the others. I went through this a year or so ago, and now every room is much closer together.speaking of hvac, we have a weird phenomena in our house where our kids rooms' are 6 degrees warmer or cooler than the rest of the house. when the heat is on in the house, it's almost like cold air is being blown in and vice versa
i assume this isnt a DIY fixSounds more like your system is unbalanced than anything else. Easiest way to check it to turn on the furnace or AC, and go to each vent, holding a tissue over the end of it. See how far the air blows the tissue. My guess is that in their rooms are getting much more airflow than the others. I went through this a year or so ago, and now every room is much closer together.speaking of hvac, we have a weird phenomena in our house where our kids rooms' are 6 degrees warmer or cooler than the rest of the house. when the heat is on in the house, it's almost like cold air is being blown in and vice versa
It all depends on whether or not the supply lines have adjustable dampers on them. If they do, you should be able to open/close them to balance things out. It took my BIL and I about 30-45 minutes to do the entire house, though everything was in the basement and easily accessible. If you don't have adjustable dampers, then yeah, it's likely not DIY unless you have a lot of spare time and tin snips.i assume this isnt a DIY fixSounds more like your system is unbalanced than anything else. Easiest way to check it to turn on the furnace or AC, and go to each vent, holding a tissue over the end of it. See how far the air blows the tissue. My guess is that in their rooms are getting much more airflow than the others. I went through this a year or so ago, and now every room is much closer together.speaking of hvac, we have a weird phenomena in our house where our kids rooms' are 6 degrees warmer or cooler than the rest of the house. when the heat is on in the house, it's almost like cold air is being blown in and vice versa
Update. Only 15a available. However there is a dryer outlet in the garage so I think I'm in businessAdd up the total amperage of all the breakers and subtract it from the main one would be the easiest way. I assume you mean breakers and not fuse box.How do I tell if I have 30a available? The garage has a separate fuse box.
Gas would be cheaper to run?
Gas pipe alone is probably like $2.50 a foot. Excavation, installation, hook up.. Could get pricey also.
My guess is there was a wood burner in there for a reason
I had this problem last January or so and it ended up being a tube. I believe it was the tube connected to the pressure switch. Either way, I cleaned it out after spending an inordinate time on the igniter and everything worked.Hvac guy cleaned the sensor much better than I did ..he said it still looked corroded. He said lets wait and see what it does tonight. He thinks I might have counted the number of LED flashes wrong...which is totally possible at 5am in the morning.
Everything else checked out normal. He basically charged me a quarter of what he normally does for a diagnostic trip since he didn't do much and we are waiting to see if it pops up again. Told me if it does take video of the LED's and call/text him right away etc.
I'll keep that in mind. Everything worked as it should of over night. No shutdowns...things working fine today to keep the temp where it should be. Will see how it goes the next few days.I had this problem last January or so and it ended up being a tube. I believe it was the tube connected to the pressure switch. Either way, I cleaned it out after spending an inordinate time on the igniter and everything worked.Hvac guy cleaned the sensor much better than I did ..he said it still looked corroded. He said lets wait and see what it does tonight. He thinks I might have counted the number of LED flashes wrong...which is totally possible at 5am in the morning.
Everything else checked out normal. He basically charged me a quarter of what he normally does for a diagnostic trip since he didn't do much and we are waiting to see if it pops up again. Told me if it does take video of the LED's and call/text him right away etc.
edit: this was on a goodman.
Yep. That should work for a big one like dodint posted which I believe was 240vUpdate. Only 15a available. However there is a dryer outlet in the garage so I think I'm in businessAdd up the total amperage of all the breakers and subtract it from the main one would be the easiest way. I assume you mean breakers and not fuse box.How do I tell if I have 30a available? The garage has a separate fuse box.
Gas would be cheaper to run?
Gas pipe alone is probably like $2.50 a foot. Excavation, installation, hook up.. Could get pricey also.
My guess is there was a wood burner in there for a reason
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